Malabar / Thalassery Biryani – Kerala’s Most Celebrated Rice Dish

The Biryani That Stands Apart

Thalassery Biryani is not like other biryanis. Born in the port town of Thalassery (Tellicherry) on Kerala’s Malabar coast, this biryani has its own identity — lighter, more fragrant, and distinctly Kerala in character. Unlike the heavy Hyderabadi or Lucknowi styles, Thalassery Biryani uses the small, aromatic Jeerakasala (Kaima) rice, which cooks faster, absorbs spices beautifully, and has a natural fragrance that no basmati can replicate.

The chicken is cooked in a rich, spiced masala and then layered with the rice and slow-cooked (dum) to perfection. Garnished with fried onions, cashews, and raisins, it’s a festive dish that’s worth every minute of effort.

This recipe uses Brahmins Jeerakasala / Kaima Rice and Eastern Chicken Biryani Masala Powder to bring authentic Malabar flavor to your kitchen.

Ingredients

For the Rice

• 3 cups Brahmins Jeerakasala / Kaima Rice (or Jeerakasala / Kaima Rice – 2 lb)
• 5 cups water
• 2 bay leaves
• 3 cloves
• 2 cardamom pods
• 1 small cinnamon stick
• 1 tsp ghee
• Salt to taste

For the Chicken Masala

• 1 kg chicken, cut into large pieces
• 3 tbsp Eastern Chicken Biryani Masala Powder
• 4 large onions, thinly sliced
• 3 medium tomatoes, chopped
• 1½ tbsp ginger-garlic paste
• 3 green chilies, slit
• 2 sprigs curry leaves
• ½ cup yogurt (curd)
• ½ tsp turmeric powder
• 1 tsp red chili powder
• Fresh coriander and mint leaves, a generous handful each
• 4 tbsp ghee + 2 tbsp coconut oil
• Salt to taste

For the Garnish

• ½ cup cashew nuts
• ¼ cup raisins
• 2 large onions, thinly sliced and deep-fried until golden and crispy (birista)
• Fresh coriander and mint leaves
• 2 tbsp ghee
• A pinch of saffron soaked in 2 tbsp warm milk (optional)

Instructions

Step 1: Prepare the Birista (Fried Onions)

1. Deep fry the thinly sliced onions in oil over medium heat, stirring often, until deep golden brown and crispy. Drain on paper towels. These will be used for garnish and also added to the masala — they add incredible sweetness and depth.

Step 2: Cook the Chicken Masala

1. Heat ghee and coconut oil in a large, heavy-bottomed pot. Add curry leaves and green chilies.
2. Add sliced onions (the 4 for masala) and fry until golden brown, about 15 minutes.
3. Add ginger-garlic paste and sauté for 3 minutes.
4. Add turmeric, red chili powder, and Eastern Chicken Biryani Masala Powder. Stir and cook for 2 minutes on low heat.
5. Add chopped tomatoes and cook until soft and oil separates, about 10 minutes.
6. Add yogurt and mix well. Cook for 3 minutes.
7. Add chicken pieces and mix thoroughly. Cook on high heat for 5 minutes, then cover and cook on medium heat for 20–25 minutes until chicken is cooked through and the masala is thick.
8. Add half the fried onions (birista), fresh coriander, and mint. Mix and remove from heat.

Step 3: Cook the Rice

1. Wash the Jeerakasala rice gently and soak for 20 minutes. Drain.
2. Bring 5 cups of water to a boil with bay leaves, cloves, cardamom, cinnamon, ghee, and salt.
3. Add the drained rice and cook until it is 70–75% done — the grains should still have a slight bite. Drain immediately and set aside.

Step 4: Dum (Layering & Slow Cooking)

1. In the same pot used for the chicken masala (or a large heavy pot), spread the chicken masala evenly at the bottom.
2. Layer the partially cooked rice over the chicken. Spread evenly.
3. Drizzle saffron milk (if using) over the rice. Top with the remaining fried onions, cashews, raisins, and fresh coriander and mint leaves. Drizzle 2 tbsp ghee over the top.
4. Cover the pot tightly with a lid (seal with dough or foil if needed to trap steam).
5. Cook on very low heat (dum) for 20–25 minutes. Place a heavy tawa (griddle) under the pot to diffuse heat if needed.
6. Remove from heat and let it rest for 10 minutes before opening.
7. Gently mix from the bottom up with a wide spatula to combine the layers without breaking the rice.

Serving Suggestions

• With raita: A cooling cucumber or onion raita is the classic accompaniment to balance the spices.
• With pickle: Serve alongside Brahmins Tender Mango Pickle for a tangy contrast.
• With pappadam: Crispy Kozhikoden’s Kerala Pappadam is a must on the side.
• With dates and lime: Traditional Malabar biryani is often served with a side of dates and a wedge of lime — a beautiful sweet-sour contrast.

What Makes Thalassery Biryani Unique

• Jeerakasala (Kaima) rice is the non-negotiable ingredient. This small, short-grain rice is grown in Kerala and has a natural cumin-like aroma. It’s lighter than basmati and absorbs the masala flavors beautifully without becoming mushy.
• Coconut oil in the masala gives it a distinctly Kerala character.
• The garnish is generous — fried onions, cashews, and raisins are not optional in Thalassery Biryani. They add sweetness, crunch, and richness that define the dish.
• It’s lighter than other biryanis — less heavy on spices, more fragrant, and the rice-to-meat ratio is balanced rather than meat-heavy.

Tips for Perfect Thalassery Biryani

• Don’t overcook the rice before the dum — 70–75% cooked is the sweet spot. It will finish cooking in the dum.
• Seal the pot tightly for the dum. No steam should escape — this is what cooks the rice through and melds the flavors.
• Low heat is essential for the dum. High heat will burn the bottom — use a tawa or heat diffuser under the pot.
• Rest before serving. The 10-minute rest after dum allows the steam to redistribute and the flavors to settle.

Shop the Ingredients

• Brahmins Jeerakasala / Kaima Rice – 1 kg
• Jeerakasala / Kaima Rice – 2 lb
• Eastern Chicken Biryani Masala Powder – 100 g
• Brahmins Tender Mango Pickle – 400 g
• Kozhikoden’s Kerala Pappadam – 200 g